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• Highland Park Surprise Highland Park Surprise

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    15^th February 2010

    Much excitement last Friday (12th Feb) when an envelope obviously containing small bottles dropped on to the door mat. Nothing was broken and I gleefully opened three small samples of Highland Park’s new expressions for global travel retail. They were from 1998, 1994 and 1990.

    Jason Craig, HP’s Global Controller (should he live on an exotic island and be stroking a fluffy white cat with a title like that? Not so fast, Mr. Bond…..), advises that parent company Edrington wanted to look into its maturing stocks to find sherry seasoned casks capable of “showcasing different dimensions of the classic Highland Park profile of honey sweetness and aromatic peat.”

    It transpires that the 1998 and 1990 vintages are to show smokier characteristics while the 1994 and 1973 show the sweeter. There was no 1973 sample as it is obviously a much rarer and more expensive beast. All of the three I was sent will be at 40% vol while the 1973 will be round about 51% though the latter might change a little as it has not yet been bottled.

     

    I am never one to turn down a dram of Highland Park. I enjoy its delightful balance of sweetness, smoke, heather and many other nuances. In the interests of telling you about them I sat down to taste:

     

    Highland Park 1998

    Appearance: Medium gold with tawny glints and a white edge. Slow, lazy tears.

     

    Nose: Orange blossom honey, heather; hazelnut praline, cream and herbs. With water it is creamier, with a slight hint of toffee and more sulphur/burnt match notes indicating sherry cask influence.

     

    Palate: Heather, honey, some fine smoke and sweet oak ( vanilla).

     

    Finish :  Medium length , luscious and sweet finish

     

     

     

    
    

    Highland Park 1994

    Appearance: Slightly richer gold than 1998, More tawny and brown tones. Slow, fat tears.

     

    Nose: A sharper note at first then milder honey and heather, cream toffees. Some refreshing citrus and dried fruit. With water it is more “juicy” and honeyed with slight sulphur.

     

    Palate: A little more smoky than 1998 for me with a creamy mouthfeel and notes of honey and heather; a little more astringent than 1998.

     

    Finish : Medium, smoky, dry but with a rearguard sweetness.

     

     

    
    

    Highland Park 1990

    Appearance: A richer gold than the other two. Gold and tawny highlights. Very slow running tears that hug the glass contours.

     

    Nose: Pears! Citrus and dried stone fruits; very juicy and mouthwatering on the nose. Honey comes in after. With water there are more pear drop sweets and a wisp of vanilla as well as a bit more smoke than the others.

     

    Palate: Unctuous and creamy mouthfeel – very silky. On the palate cream, slight toffee, heather and some herb with smoke and a faint hint of vanilla.

     

    Finish: Quite long, heather with smokiness with dryness persisting.  

     

    Which did I like? Well – all of them. The 1998 was the instant gratification expression with the shortest finish but the nose on the 1990 was a beauty – as was the 1998 too. I found the 1994 a little closed at first. It needs more time and coaxing and is worth the extra minutes wait.

    All of these will be available in global travel retail including certain US outlets from April so you will need to travel by plane to get some. There will be a little more information and photography nearer that time so I will upload some pictures again then. The 1998 will be in a 1 litre bottle while the others will be 70cl.  The only pricing supplied at this stage was in Euros but, as you might expect the1973 is far and away the most expensive and the 1998 is very reasonably priced at Euro 46. Dollar pricing to be advised in due course.

    © Caroline Dewar 2010

     

     

     

     

     

     

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• Edrington & Berry Bros. Exchan Edrington & Berry Bros. Exchange Brands

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
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    8^th February 2010

     

    Britain's leading fine wines and spirits merchant, Berry Bros. & Rudd (BB&R), announced last week that it has finalised an agreement to sell the Cutty Sark blended Scotch Whisky brand to The Edrington Group, makers of The Famous Grouse, The Macallan and Highland Park amongst others.
    
    Under the deal, BB&R will acquire The Glenrothes single malt brand from Edrington, which has signed long-term supply agreements to provide whisky fillings and stocks to BB&R. Edrington will retain ownership of The Glenrothes distillery.

    The transaction will also involve Edrington acquiring all distribution contracts on Cutty Sark in force at the time of completion.  The agreement is due to be concluded by April 2010. The total consideration has not been revealed.
    
    Hugh Sturges, managing director, BB&R, said the sale of the Cutty Sark brand and purchase of The Glenrothes was in line with the company's long term vision of concentrating investment resources behind developing a world leading position as a supplier of fine wines and super-premium spirits. I have a wine account with BBR and they do indeed have access to many superb wines – as well as whiskies and other spirits. Their wonderful shop and cellar premises in London date back to 1698. Their whisky buyer is Doug McIvor – a man of immense whisky knowledge.

    Ian Curle, chief executive of Edrington, said the deal would enhance the group's position as Scotland's leading international premium spirits company and strengthen its position in the Scotch whisky category with an unrivalled and well-established portfolio of leading blended and single malt brands.

    "In an ever-consolidating drinks industry, this agreement offers significant operational synergies and market advantages. It improves our distribution in key territories and strengthens our position as an independent premium brand company," said Mr. Curle.

    Edrington has enjoyed a long-term partnership with BB&R under which it has supplied blended whisky for the Cutty Sark brand for over 70 years and is currently responsible for all aspects of producing Cutty Sark. Today, Cutty Sark is a top three whisky brand in Mediterranean countries such as Greece, Spain and Portugal, where it is popular in the fast-moving café/bar/restaurant/hotel sector. The brand continues to have a strong presence in America and is increasing its footprint in Asia and developing markets.
    
    I am pleased to say this means no change for the irrepressible Ronnie Cox, Brand Heritage Director for Spirits at BB&R who will still be educating and entertaining us globally on The Glenrothes.

     

    © Caroline Dewar 2010

     

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• Bruichladdich - Ugly Betty Joi Bruichladdich - Ugly Betty Joins Oldest Still

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    4^th February 2010

    Not only is Bruichladdich Distillery looking at turning waste sludge from whisky production into green energy, those inventive and creative people have recently re-installed Scotland’s oldest still and are refurbishing and re-using an old Lomond Still.

     

    The still thought likely to be Scotland’s oldest (seen here looking like some mediaeval flying saucer), was commissioned for Bruichladdich in 1880 by the Harvey Brothers who owned it at that time. One hundred and thirty years of service is not at all bad. Tell that to your newest technology and household appliances with their built-in obsolescence. The average life of most stills is about 40 years but this one was built to last having an extra thick copper bottom to withstand the rigours of coal fires which used to heat the stills before they were changed to steam. Sadly, no distillery in Scotland now uses the coal-firing method. Renowned coppersmiths and stillmakers, Forsyth of Rothes, carried out the renovation and testing to ensure the old girl was still viable and she passed with flying colours.

     

    Bruichladdich’s manager, Duncan McGillivray commented, “We are told at 130 years old this is most likely to be the oldest whisky still in the world. They don’t make them like this anymore – there’s plenty of life left in her and we intend to keep her going for a wee while yet.”

     

    According to the distillery management the still’s long life is partly down to fate as there have been periods of closure and part-time production in Bruichladdich’s life which meant the still was not in constant use. Indeed they make the point that “under usage between 1881 and 1945 owing to struggling finances, two depressions, US prohibition, two world wars and a fire that nearly destroyed the distillery, meant it was already in remarkably good shape by the time it was converted to more forgiving internal steam coils in the fifties.”

    

     

    The second still being put in place is a former Lomond still gathered from the old Inverleven Distillery, last owned by Allied Distillers. That distillery was dismantled years ago but the Bruichladdich boys managed to get in and lay claim to a few pieces before it was emptied. Some of those pieces have formed part of their production since the place was reopened. As you can see it’s not a pretty item though it will doubtless be spruced up in situ. Jim McEwan has christened it Ugly Betty. The idea behind a Lomond still was to allow use of varying neck lengths and make differing characters of spirit. The neck was made with removable panels and moveable plates inside to facilitate such changes in the spirit the still made.

    This is apparently the last authentic Lomond still in existence. There used to be one or two at Miltonduff and the spirit and final whisky which came out of it was called Mosstowie – a bit like a second wine from a Bordeaux chateau. I haven’t visited there for years. I worked for the owning company at the time of my last visit but I don’t recall they were in operation even then.  

    But I digress. We are told there will be a new addition to this resilient old piece of equipment – Jim McEwan’s newly designed neck section. Managing Director, Mark Reynier, entitled it the Silver Gattling due to its internal components but Jim’s preferred name is Reflux Revolver. Nothing to do with old guns. He is creating this new neck interior with some innovative changes, one of which will give increased reflux and a purer spirit. The other changes you will have to go and see for yourself. The addition of this still gives Bruichladdich a stills tally of five and its use is yet to be divulged. 

    Before I go, back to that production sludge. The distillery is investing in an anaerobic digester to convert the yeasty waste into methane which will then be burned to make electricity. It is understood the island’s other distilleries are considering similar options. This could cut the distillers’ carbon footprint and supply a large percentage of their power needs. If it is successful a lot of Islay’s electricity could be generated by distilleries and maybe, we are told, with some gas left over for methane powered vehicles. At the moment the only methane powered vehicles I know of over there are the cows but they are neither very comfortable nor very fast. You have to hand it to the Bruichladdich team – they don’t sit still for a minute. 

    I will be over there again in May for the Whisky Festival and hoped to see these stills in operation then but Ugly Betty does not come on stream till the summer. I’ll just have to go back later on, then. Any excuse to visit Islay is a good one.

     

    © Caroline Dewar 2010

     

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• Whisky Auction Whisky Auction

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    4^th February 2010

    I spent all day yesterday at McTear’s auctioneers here in Glasgow where they were holding an auction of rare and collectable whiskies. There appeared to be collectors from Europe in the room judging by the voices and I thought I recognised some faces from other events I have attended.

    I had nothing in the auction - my main reason was to see if anything I also own went for a good price. It’s all going for auction when I am old and poor to augment my pension fund. I should probably just drink it as I am always telling clients, readers and audiences that it is not for investing in – it’s for drinking and enjoying, However, you can’t work in this industry for a long time without squirreling away some interesting bottles, probably thinking you’ll get round to drinking them one of these days.

    

     

    Apart from a rather chilly saleroom (to keep us all awake?) it was an interesting day.

    I’m not sure how things are going in other markets but it seemed to me yesterday that the recession is still affecting such sales. Most items went for a little less than or within their sale estimates. The star, big price items fetched much less than expected. For example a half bottle size of 1900 Springbank drawn off in 1927 was estimated at £4,000 - £6,000 but fetched only £2,200. There were a few surprises at some lots going for much more than estimated – a bottle of 19 year old Rosebank from the Rare Malts Selection sold for £500 against an estimate of £160 and a 28 year old Glenury Royal for £460 instead of £180. Andrew Bell, McTear’s whisky man, said he was generally happy with the pricing and pointed out that some things go lower if there are quite a number of them. A case in point yesterday was Ardbeg 17 Year Old. Some people have obviously not yet got round to drinking theirs and have heard it got some reasonable prices at auction. So there were at least half a dozen and the price fetched was, subsequently, lower.  

     

    I have taken the view that I will hang on to my bottles for at least a few years yet. McTear’s are having another sale in early May which I might attend. I’d be interested in hearing of anyone’s whisky auction experiences in US or Canada – or anywhere else for that matter.

     

     © Caroline Dewar 2010

     

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• Chivas Celebrates Success and Chivas Celebrates Success and Style

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    4 December 2009

    
    

    At the very end of November, two pieces of good news from Chivas Brothers, the Scotch Whisky arm of Pernod Ricard and guardian of the Chivas and Ballantine’s brands amongst others.

     

    The first came in the form of a gorgeous piece of packaging for Chivas 12 designed by Christian Lacroix, the Chivas 12 Magnum, which was entered for the Monaco Formes de Luxe Awards 2009 where it won the Jury Prize. It is the first time this prize has been awarded to a spirit brand. The awards in Monaco are presented each year as part of the Monaco Luxe Pack international exhibition to the most exceptional examples of packaging in 14 categories including glassware, wine and spirits packaging, perfume packaging, promotional materials, fine food packaging, make up and innovative decoration.  

    The Limited Edition bottle won the award having been judged as the best entry across all categories by a panel of experts.  It won out over other entries including brands such as Dior, Guerlain, Hermès, Dom Perignon and Shiseido. The jury panel was united in its praise for the winner, commenting: “The Chivas Regal 12 Lacroix bottle is remarkable. We were extremely impressed with the technical execution, the overall look and feel but also with the meticulous attention to detail”.

    Chivas Regal Global Brand Director Sophie Gallois commented: “There is a huge buzz surrounding this Chivas Regal limited edition and we now have an international waiting list for this product….To receive this award is wonderful news for the team at Chivas Regal and a tribute to the creative genius of Monsieur Lacroix.” 

    Each of the limited edition bottles is produced using a unique laser metallisation technique developed by French based Solev Company to precisely deliver the lavish and sophisticated design created by Christian Lacroix.  The Chivas 12 Magnum retails at the UK price of £125. No indication of pricing for other markets but it should be roughly equivalent after taking local taxes into account.

    Therefore not a bottle you would throw away once you have finished the contents.

    The Chivas 12 Magnum by Lacroix builds on an impressive track record from Chivas of working with the world’s top designers and craftsmen on bottle designs, including Alexander McQueen, New York architect Evan Douglis and designer Andrée Putman, and bespoke commissions such as The Chivas Bar by Asprey and the Gentleman’s Companion by Linley.

    In another excellent achievement Chivas Bros. was awarded IWSC Distiller of the Year at the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC) in London at the end of November. The competition’s top award for a spirits producer is the result of Chivas Brothers’ unmatched tally of trophy and medal wins including trophies for best gin for Beefeater 24, and best single malt Scotch whisky under 15 years for Strathisla as well as eight Gold Best in Class medals across the portfolio.

     

    The Trophy for Best Gin was presented to Beefeater Master Distiller Desmond Payne just one year since its launch. Beefeater Gin has received this Trophy an impressive seven times in the last ten years, emphasising its position as the most authoritative gin brand in the world.

     

    Christian Porta, Chairman and Chief Executive of Chivas Brothers said: “Winning the IWSC Distiller of the Year award as well as such a wide range of awards across our portfolio highlights the expertise and dedication of our Master Blenders and Distillers, and we are delighted to be toasting their success. Such independent endorsement from the IWSC demonstrates that Chivas Brothers is the authority on Scotch whisky and premium gin, with international brands of supreme quality.”

     

    The International Wine & Spirit Competition is the premier competition of its kind in the world and acknowledges the ultimate achievement. It represents a benchmark of excellence and has been held annually for the last 40 years to reward outstanding quality among the world’s best wines, spirits and liqueurs. Winners are selected following a rigorous blind tasting carried out by a judging panel headed by some of the industry’s most influential members.

     

    So many congratulations to Chivas for these awards and particularly to Desmond Payne, an ex-colleague of mine when Beefeater and the whisky company I worked for were owned by Allied Domecq. I visited the Beefeater Distillery in London a lwhile back when Beefeater 24 was just in its launch phase and the US launch visits were about to begin. I had hated gin for years (student hangovers!) but a sample of this fabulous spirit set me back on track when they made me a Collins using it. Having mouthwatering grapefruit noticeably added to the botanicals plus green teas, one of which is grown on the slopes of Mount Fuji, makes for a stunning super premium gin. Not bad praise from a diehard whisky person.  It is available in only the best outlets – same as their premium whiskies. Try some – it’s wonderful.  

     © Caroline Dewar 2009
    

     

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• Ballantine's - Far East Golf E Ballantine's - Far East Golf Expands Further

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    4 December 2009

    
    

    Top international whisky brand Ballantine’s has further strengthened its involvement with golf in the Far East by means of sponsorship of China’s Omega Mission Hill World Cup. The first one, sanctioned by the International Federation of PGA tours, took place at the end of November. Winners were the Italian Molinari Brothers.

     

    This will allow Ballantine’s to be involved in one of the fastest growing golf and whisky markets in what is currently the world’s fastest growing economy. China has around 200 existing golf courses and over another 100 under construction. That’s seems a very large and swift expansion but there is a total population of 1.4 billion. Even with only a small percentage as possible golfers that means a huge interest and need for courses. It would also suggest a potentially interesting destination for a golfing holiday dependent on facilities and how geared up they are to allow visitors to play.

     

    This new sponsorship has coincided with the appointment of leading golfer Graeme McDowell as Global Brand Ambassador for Ballantine’s. He was already involved in the 2008 nd 2009 Ballantine’s Championships and, as a result of winning in 2008, he awas invited to create a limited edition blend with Ballantine’s Blender Sandy Hyslop. This was later auctioned for charity, bringing in $11,000.

     

    Graeme will sport the Ballantine’s logo on his sleeve during competition, helping brand visibility in the right markets and tournaments including all Majors and World Golf Championships. PR activity will also be a feature of his work.

    Peter Moore Global Brand Director, Ballantine’s commented: “This is a very exciting year for Ballantine’s as we further establish our presence in the world of golf. The Omega Mission Hills World Cup is a key event for us, as we edge closer to consolidating our position as No 1 Scotch whisky in Asia and bring the brand values that resonate so well there to life.

    “Additionally, we are delighted to have signed Graeme as a Global Brand Ambassador for the brand. We have worked closely with him both at home – at the Scottish Open, and away – at the Ballantine’s Championship in recent years, and have always been impressed by his outstanding golf talent, dedication and natural flair. We are confident that this formal collaboration will prove successful for both parties and leave a lasting impression on the golfing world.”

    The Italian winners of this year’s tournament celebrated with a rare bottle of Ballantine’s 30 Year Old Scotch whisky at The Omega Mission Hills World Cup of Golf in Shenzhen.

     

    Making history as the first brothers to win the event, Francesco and Edoardo Molinari closed with a stylish 4-under 68 in the final round of the unique competition on Mission Hills' Olazabal Course. Sweden's Henrik Stenson and Robert Karlsson, the defending champions from 2008, shot a 69 to tie for second with Ireland's Rory McIlroy and Graeme McDowell (70). McIlroy and McDowell had an excellent tournament and had led after each of the first three rounds. McDowell was disappointed not to win but did leave with a bottle of Ballantine’s 21 Year Old, awarded for the lowest round of the day on Thursday 26th November.

     

    He said: “Ballantine’s seems to be a lucky charm for me – I tend to play well if they’re supporting a tournament.”

     

    © Caroline Dewar 2009

     

     

     

     

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• Bowmore Sells for Thousands in Bowmore Sells for Thousands in NY Auction

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    24^th November 2009

    Not so long ago I wrote about the Bowmore Gold expression which was the final part of the Bowmore 1964 Trilogy (following White and Black) of old malts from this renowned Islay distillery. White and Black were released in 2008 and 2007 respectively. Well, last week the collection of three sold at Christie’s New York saleroom for $21,600 – well above its reserve price of $18,000.

     

    

     

    Like its two sisters, Bowmore Gold matured in the distillery’s No.1 vault below sea level. Over its 44 year maturation period it has had time to develop an enticing array of aromas and flavours in the single malt (see previous article for tasting notes).

     

    Charles Curtis, Head of North American Wine Sales for Christie's, commented: "The Bowmore Trilogy, which sold for $21,600, excited interest worldwide and was keenly pursued by potential buyers. We are honoured to have been the route to market for the debut of this prestigious spirit, and believe that this result demonstrates the strength of the nascent market for collectible spirits."

     Obviously there was much excitement at Morrison Bowmore HQ back here in Glasgow where Chief Executive, Mike Keiller, commented, "The final addition to the Trilogy, Gold Bowmore, was only launched in October and was met with wonderful acclaim. For the entire 1964 Bowmore Trilogy to have been sold for an incredible price at the most prestigious auction house in the world really is a fitting celebratory note to end on for this unique collection of whisky.  We are very proud of all three whiskies - they're great examples of the quality we strive for with every expression we create - and we look forward to continuing this success with future exclusive Bowmore editions." 

    
    

    So all you keen buyers of rare whiskies keep an eye out for what comes out in future from Bowmore. If this was a US buyer, then Happy Thanksgiving. I hope they have a wonderful holiday time savouring these and don’t just keep them to admire.

     

     

     

    
    

    © Caroline Dewar 2009

     

     

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• New Scotch Whisky Law in Force New Scotch Whisky Law in Force

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    23 November 2009

    From today (23^rd November 2009) new laws concerning the labelling and description of Scotch Whisky come into force. These have been implemented by UK government in conjunction with officials in Scotland and with help from the SWA. It may not seem too different, if at all, on the brands you drink regularly and what you already believe or know about Scotch but a change of descriptions was needed to clarify matters to consumers in all countries.

     

    It is intended that these new laws strengthen the legal protection for Scotch Whisky from imitations, whilst ensuring consumers receive clear and consistent information on bottle labels. The Regulations should further reinforce the integrity of Scotch and support the future growth of our largest export.

    A new requirement to bottle Single Malts only in Scotland, tighter rules on the use of distillery names on bottle labels, and better protection of traditional regional names such as ‘Highland’ and ‘Lowland’, are among the measures introduced. Consistent labelling terms and rules will ensure consumers like you and me receive clear information about what we are buying, according to SWA Chairman, Paul Walsh.

    There are now five new categories of Scotch and these are defined for the first time:

    Single Malt Scotch Whisky – is what it says on the tin (sorry, bottle!) : a whisky from one distillery only and it can bear the name of that distillery. This is the description already used by almost all single malt bottlings, often with the inclusion of the region of production such as Highland or Lowland etc.

    Single Grain Scotch Whisky - for those few which are bottled as singles.

    Blended Malt Scotch Whisky – this to replace the old term Vatted Malt which was confusing for consumers and now indicates that the malt whisky is a blend from more than one single malt distillery. It will have to have a brand name and not a distillery name.

    Blended Grain Scotch Whisky – not too many of these about but there are a few.  

    Blended Scotch Whisky - this is the main Scotch category and means no change in description for the world’s blended brands such as Ballantine’s, Teacher’s, Chivas Regal, Famous Grouse, Bell’s, Johnnie Walker and many hundreds of others. 

    Whichever of the descriptions above applies to the whisky in the bottle will have to be clearly and prominently shown on labels.

    Another development is that all Single Malts must now be bottled in Scotland. This was largely the case with such precious and smaller volume liquids anyway, but the backing of the law will now give consumers more confidence and make it easier to weed out those who would try to pass another liquid off as a Single Malt Scotch. I say smaller volume as single malts are still only about 10% of the world total Scotch market. Even the largest seller comes nowhere near the volumes of the major blends.

    There are new rules to prevent the misleading labelling and marketing of Single Malt Scotch Whisky. For example, there is also now a ban on use of the term Pure Malt. This was causing considerable confusion amongst consumers, according to research. Its usage had developed over the years and was not necessarily technically incorrect in all instances – but the confusion was unhelpful. The majority described this way were what are now to be known as Blended Malt Scotch Whisky though some single malts also bore the description “pure”. Confuse a consumer time! The consumer research showed that some thought Pure was a separate category on its own, some thought it was in some way superior to Single and some thought it was the same as Single Malt. A spokesman at the SWA told me all involved in discussing the new labelling agreed that it was a “pernicious” term.

    Any whisky which has not been wholly produced in one distillery can no longer use that distillery name  - this applies to the Blended Malt category but also to practices by some overseas bottlers, I understand and not by the Scotch producers themselves.

    There is to be protection in the use of what are now considered the five main production regions of Scotch - Highland, Speyside, Lowland, Islay and Campbeltown.

    When I first came into the industry in the early 80’s, Speyside was always technically mentioned as a subset of Highland but with the relative explosion of single malts since the late 80’s/ early 90’s it is now normal practice to include Speyside as a separate region.  These regional definitions must be carefully used on packaging – which all responsible producers have done for long and weary anyway but, again,  legal backing does no harm except to wrongdoers in far flung parts who want to pass off a spirit as something it is not.

    One other clarification is that all Scotch Whisky must be wholly matured in Scotland. This is a “belt and braces” clause to make sure that no one thinks that if they take 3 year old Scotch and mature it further in their own market they can still call it Scotch. The law also makes it illegal now to ship mature Scotch in oak or wooden cask for this very reason. The old law did state that Scotch had to be fully matured here in Scotland but some overseas took that to mean only the initial 3 year maturation before the spirit could legally be called Scotch. Not so.

    Any spirit going overseas before it was three years old could not be called Scotch Whisky anyway but this sets it all down more clearly. Anything bottled in Scotland must be matured here for all of its life and anything bottled overseas as Scotch must have completed its full maturation here too. For example, a few blends are bottled in other markets (e.g. Brazil, India, Korea) to help their sales by creating local employment and this has been done for years. However, they are matured and blended here before being shipped out in bulk tanks under strict controls in transit and again once they reach the bottling hall at the destination.

    Finally, as far as consumers are concerned, there are clearer rules on the use of age statements on packaging. The law on Scotch Whisky has always been clear that if it  says 12 Years Old on the label then the youngest whisky in the bottle was from a cask that had matured it for 12 years.  This law was being breached on occasion by bottling in other markets (China and Taiwan are examples) where there were references to 12 maturation cycles – with those words in small letters. These cycles could have been as short as a few months and some consumers simply see the twelve and make the assumption of years. Same with numbers on neck labels or alongside use of the word “anniversary” in English, sometimes used as a piece of design whimsy by bottlers in some overseas markets but really utterly misleading. Age must now be made clear in years. Such breaches can be dealt with now in overseas markets under unfair competition laws.

     It is also now in the law that if a year of distillation or bottling date is used on a label then an age statement or distillation date must appear there too, in the same field of vision which will largely mean on front labels. For example, a distillation date might indicate it was distilled in 1989. You might have assumed in 2009, therefore, that the whisky is 20 years old. However, it might have been distilled in November 1989 and bottled in April 2009 so that it is not 20 years old. 

    All legitimate industry bottlings are already doing such things so no need to worry there. Indeed, in the US all Scotch labels also need to be approved by your TTB once they are declared legal here so there are no causes for concern. The SWA tells me that the law here is more simply expressed and maybe easier to understand than the TTB regulations but they all get us to the same place in the end to protect and inform both legitimate producers and consumers and to protect the good name of Scotch Whisky worldwide.

     © Caroline Dewar 2009

     

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• Responsible Drinking - Scotlan Responsible Drinking - Scotland Style

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    23 November 2009

    The Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) has just announced new measures which will reinforce the responsible drinking message it is promoting heavily through its members – all of whom are producers of Scotch Whisky. These measures are outlined in the SWA’s revised Code of Practice for the Responsible Marketing and Promotion of Scotch Whisky to tackle the issue of problem drinking and discourage the misuse of alcohol. They will apply to advertising and promotion in all countries of the European Union undertaken by Scotch producers and their appointed distributors. The implementation will involve all future Scotch Whisky advertisements and printed point of sale materials carrying a responsible drinking message. Furthermore, all whisky sponsorships must deliver an initiative that promotes responsible alcohol consumption.

     

    The SWA is the industry body which works alongside government to regulate the production and promotion of Scotch Whisky. Other vital parts of its work are in lobbying government to protect the interests of Scotch Whisky, to argue for fair trading rules and taxes for Scotch Whisky in all countries and also to protect it, primarily overseas, from misleading and fraudulent activity by counterfeiters and producers who try to pass off local spirits as Scotch. The SWA Code mentioned above is widely recognised as the best possible drinks industry practice in the EU and covers all commercial communications to consumers. The organisation itself is renowned for its integrity and tenacity in tackling those who would undermine the quality and reputation of Scotch Whisky and viewed as the standard for other EU spirit organisations to reach. Under the code an independent panel can impose sanctions on distillers such as fines or a “name and shame” policy for breaches. The ultimate sanction is expulsion from the SWA and the resultant bad publicity for that producer.

     

    In launching this code the SWA has also reaffirmed its support for most of the new Scottish Alcohol Bill aimed at stopping irresponsible promotions including alcoholic drinks being sold at low prices below tax as loss leaders by supermarkets and other traders. It is intended that such a measure would be to the benefit of poorer members of society where much of the alcohol misuse happens through access to cheap drink and causes resultant health issues and other social problems. One Scottish Government proposal was to create a minimum price which the EU has ruled as illegal and which many, including the SWA, see as not getting to the nub of the problem. The SWA’s Chief Executive ,Gavin Hewitt commented, “The Code continues to be well used by SWA members seeking advice on how to ensure compliance with its provisions. It is a good example of how self-regulation can be an effective mechanism as we work to change cultural attitudes to the misuse of alcohol.”

     

    “We also believe a floor price mechanism to tackle loss-leading could be introduced in the form of a ban on alcohol sales below tax. This would be a better way forward than an illegal mechanism such as minimum pricing.”

     

    The SWA has also been active in arguing, rightly in my view, that education on use of alcohol and attempts to change attitudes away from the “drink to get  drunk” perspective of some, particularly young people, should be a major plank in discouraging alcohol misuse. This is a view recently given more publicity by Master Distiller Richard Paterson from Whyte & Mackay who wants to see more done in schools with quite young children. Here’s to the SWA’s continued success in all their endeavours.

     

     

     

     

    © Caroline Dewar 2009

     

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• New Glenlivet Cellar Collectio New Glenlivet Cellar Collection 1973 Edition

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    17^th November 2009

    Those of you fortunate enough to have tasted previous offerings in this range will know how good each one is – or was if you’ve now opened and finished them. I spent a happy day or two up there several years ago tasting through a number of them with Jim Cryle, previous Master Distiller, before he retired.

     

    Yesterday (16th November), The Glenlivet launched a new edition under the auspices of current Master Distiller, Alan Winchester, who has been with the company for many years, twelve of them at The Glenlivet which is still the top selling single malt Scotch Whisky in the USA and the world number two.

     

    This new release is due to be rolled out over several key markets, including the USA, from now until middle of 2010. It is the eighth release in the range and is not chill-filtered, being offered at 49% vol. Only 853 individually numbered bottles from the best three remaining 1973 casks have been produced.

     

    Each one is also signed by Alan who commented, “The 1973 Cellar Collection is the supreme expression of what The Glenlivet is all about – since George Smith first created The Glenlivet, we have striven for perfection and I believe that this is a whisky that all whisky lovers will want to own and savour. It is an honour to be appearing on The Glenlivet label and becoming part of the brand’s story and rich heritage.”

     

    Half of the whisky has been matured in sherry butts and the rest in two refill American oak hogsheads. Again, no tasting sample for such a precious dram but the company’s own notes are:

     

    NOSE: Bursting with big juicy sweet orange flavours combined with rich sherry sweetness and freshly baked moist ginger bread notes. The fruity flavours are very reminiscent of fruit drop boiled sweets.

     

    TASTE: Perfectly balanced and mouthwatering, it fills the mouth with sweet fruity flavours echoing the nose. Allied with these fruity orange and peach flavours is a wonderful liquorice and aniseed experience followed by a cinnamon ginger tang.

     

    FINISH: Incredibly long and sweet.

     

    Two of my own favourite whisky writers, Dave Broom and Charles MacLean have tasted it and pronounced it superb. The older Glenlivets generally are ones I particularly like myself. I have never met many whiskies I don’t like (though there have been a few) but the older ones are each a fabulous and unique expression of The Glenlivet’s artistry. Others in this Cellar Collection have been :

    
     The Glenlivet 1967 Vintage                                      2000

     The American Oak Finish 30 year old                       2001

     The Glenlivet 1959 Vintage                                      2002

     The Glenlivet 1983 Vintage French Oak Finish          2003

    The Glenlivet 1964 Vintage                                       2004

    The Glenlivet 1972 Vintage                                       2005

    The Glenlivet 1969 Vintage                                       2006

     

    Looks like it is time to revise those Holiday or birthday present lists though at a price of $1200 and with such limited numbers it won’t be in anything other than the top whisky specialists. A fine end to a Thanksgiving dinner maybe – but only for those you love the most and who will appreciate it.

     

     © Caroline Dewar 2009
    

     

     

     

     

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• Ballantine’s Golfs and Illumin Ballantine’s Golfs and Illuminates; Royal Salute Plays Polo; Holiday Gifts

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

    11^th November 2009

    There have been a number of new or extended activities announced by Chivas Bros. recently for some of its brands. Now, I know Ballantine’s Finest is not a brand with huge US relevance but you will doubtless encounter it in other markets and it is one of the world’s largest selling blended brands, huge in Europe and holding the No.1 position in twelve countries. I used to work on its marketing in a global sense. Its aged brands do a brilliant trade in Far Eastern markets. Chivas Bros. main blend in the US is Chivas Regal.

    At the end of October it was announced that Ballantine’s will continue its golf sponsorship in Korea, the Ballantine’s Championship, for a further three years. It is now the largest sporting event in Korea and Asia’s fourth largest golf tournament.

    The news of the extended Korean collaboration is further enhanced by the announcement that South Korea’s Y.E. Yang has signed up for the Ballantine’s Championship in 2010. Yang made history as the first Asian-born player to win a major tournament, following his head-to-head with Tiger Woods at the US PGA earlier this year.  The home signing will help reinforce Korea’s growing reputation for world-class golf on the international circuit. Ballantine’s is also involved with the Scottish Open - main sponsor Barclay’s Bank - held every year at Loch Lomond.

    This is not all Ballantine’s has been up to. Those of you visiting Europe may well see its new on-trade (bar/hotel/restaurant) promotional item: the world’s first self-illuminating bottle for Ballantine’s Finest. It can also be used for pouring and imitates the appearance of a graphic equaliser on a sound system, appearing to react to the tonal quality of audio passing through it by lighting up intermittently to create drama and increase back bar prominence.  The promotion is entitled “Listen to Your Beat” and will appear in bars and clubs in 35 key markets positing the idea that by listening to your own beat and following your own instincts, you will make choices that leave an impression on others. This follows on from the brand’s recent Leave an Impression campaign. I just like its quirkiness, style and fun so thought I would let you see it too.

    By the way, those of you looking for an affordable gift for the holiday season should consider both Chivas Regal and The Glenlivet 12 Year Old this year in their stylish seasonal gift liveries, also from Chivas Bros. Other brands are included in the new gift pack offerings but mainly in France and other markets.  

    
    

    For Chivas Regal 12 Year Old they have introduced a limited edition gift tin with rich colouring and texture. For The Glenlivet there is the revival of a leather case with red ribbon seal for the core range of 12 Year Old (rich brown), 15 Year Old (deep red) and 18 Year Old (navy blue). Indeed, those last ones would make a nice set of three for a Scotch Whisky lover near you.

    Another of Chivas’ deluxe blends, Royal Salute has signed a deal for sponsorship of polo in India. The Royal Salute Maharaja of Jodhpur Golden Jubilee Cup event in India will take place from 26-30 December. This will build on the success of the Royal Salute Gold Cup, an exclusive tournament held annually in October at the luxury Nine Dragons Hill Polo Club in Shanghai, China. The brand is also looking into further international opportunities to support the historic sport.

    While the Royal Salute Polo Gold Cup has a reputation as the foremost annual polo event in China, The Maharaja of Jodhpur’s Golden Jubilee is played in the shadows of the Umaid Bhawan Palace and culminates in the Royal Salute Golden Jubilee ball for 150 guests. The Maharaja’s exclusive New Year’s Eve procession and celebration, ‘New Year at The Mehrangarh Fort’, marks the end of the polo season and is full of splendour.

    Attending the Jodhpur event, which is an invitation-only 10 goal tournament, will be the Duke of Argyll. His Grace has a long standing relationship with Royal Salute, the only Scotch whisky in the world with a range that starts at 21 years.

    Neil Macdonald, Brand Director for Royal Salute, explained: “Polo is known as the king of sports and the sport of kings, so there is a natural and strong affinity between the world’s leading luxury whisky brand and this regal sport. As part of Royal Salute’s growing international appeal, we are building links with distinctive and luxurious polo gatherings around the world in some of the most iconic destinations. 

    India is one of our most important potential markets and we’re honoured to be working with the Maharaja of Jodhpur and his team on such an important event.”

    (Incidentally, the company did have a championship team sponsored by Ballantine’s in elephant polo in Thailand though not sure if that one is still going on. Now there’s a sport I’d like to see on TV.)

    Royal Salute was first created as the ultimate tribute to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II on her coronation in 1953. Not only has the brand recorded double digit growth over the last five years, it has also received several prestigious awards including the 2009 IWSC Gold Best in Class for Royal Salute 100 Cask and Gold at the 2009 Scotch Whisky Masters for Royal Salute 21 YO. Fit for kings and queens indeed.

     © Caroline Dewar 2009
    

     

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• Highland Park Relives the 60 Highland Park Relives the 60

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    11^th November, 2009

    Edrington Group, the owners of Highland Park Distillery on Orkney, are releasing from this month two 1960’s vintages from this excellent distillery – one from 1964 and one from 1968.  These will form part of the distillery’s new Orcadian Vintage series. It is expected that there will be ten releases under this banner over the next five years.

     

    This follows on from the success of the recent 40 Year Old and, prior to that, 30 Year Old and growing exports. These factors allow the distillery to consider such exclusive edition moves. Indeed, I was told recently that a small group of Russians visited Highland Park not so long ago and asked about buying the 40 Year Old. The staff there thought they might want one each or one to share and, as we all know, there are quite a number of wealthy Russians these days. But no - they wanted to buy 240 bottles there and then! At about £900 per bottle that’s some sale for one day.  The request had to be refused as it was on limited sale in key markets and the company quite rightly could not risk upsetting its contracted distributors. They were allowed to buy some bottles, though nowhere even near 240.

     

    But back to these two new editions.  The 1964 will be the oldest in the series and since the liquid is so rare only 290 bottles at 42.2% vol. from two refill hogsheads will be available. The UK retail price will be around £3750. I understand that this will not be in the USA for the time being. Better get over here then.

     

     

    The 1968, however, will be available – 1550 bottles of it at 45.6% vol. taken from eight refill casks (seven hogsheads and one butt) and said to have a natural golden hue with a full flavour  including “hints of opaque honey and lemon grass”. Sounds good to me. US price is expected to be about $4,000 but still to be confirmed.

     

    The packaging for this new range adopts a very distinctive decanter/bell shaped bottle in jet black glass, flashes of silver foil, Pictish knotwork design and the pewter H on the front. Each expression is also contained in a natural oakwood box inlaid with marquetry and the pewter H once more, with a booklet about the expression. Tasting notes for the two versions are from the company (as one might expect, no tasting samples due to rarity and price) :

     

    Detail: Orcadian Vintage Series 1964

     

    Colour:            A delightfully rich, russet hue with exemplary clarity and brightness.

     

    Nose:               At full strength the 1964 Vintage is redolent of toasted oak, dried strawberries and shellac with a generous coating of beeswax.  When reduced, toasted toffee and smouldering bonfire embers come to the fore, followed by beguiling notes of gingerbread, sandalwood and cinnamon bark.

     

    Palate:             Unreduced, this expression has the delicious sweetness associated with Highland Park but combined with a fascinating spiciness, crushed black pepper, crème brulee and toasted vanilla pod add to the complexity.  The addition of water reintroduces the toasted oak initially encountered on the nose accompanied by distinctive hints of Applewood smoked cheddar, vanilla sponge and paprika.

     

    Finish:             Rich, long, lingering spiciness completes the sensational tasting experience of this venerable single malt.

     

     

    Detail: Orcadian Vintage Series 1968

     

    Colour:            A delightfully rich, naturally golden hue with remarkable clarity and brightness.

     

    Bouquet:          At full strength the 1968 Vintage is reminiscent of thick, opaque honey but with attractive notes of lemongrass, sandalwood and a variety of aromatic spices.  When reduced, citrus fruits and pencil shavings become immediately apparent, followed by sweet aromas of rose and crème caramel.

     

    Palate:             At natural strength, this expression of Highland Park has a delicious complexity, the citrus evident on the nose develops into dried orange peel whereas the pencil shavings transform into toasted oak.  The aromatic spices are revealed as ginger and cloves as well as some camphor.  The judicious addition of water creates a delicious balance between vanilla sweetness and delicate spiciness

     

    Finish:             A lasting impression of rich spiciness is the legacy of a single malt that is extremely long and surprisingly sweet.

     

     

    I did a whisky tasting in London recently for a major European energy company and used Highland Park’s standard 12 Year Old as one of the whiskies. It was very well received and a few people who were not usually diehard Scotch fans came up and asked me about it afterwards as they had enjoyed it so much. It’s an expression which never fails to please due to its versatility and the company deserves success with these new, more exotic bottlings.

     

     

    © Caroline Dewar 2009

     

     

     

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• The Supreme Glengoyne The Supreme Glengoyne

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    13^th October 2009

     

    Last week Glengoyne held a celebration event at the distillery for its ultra premium new expression of 40 Years Old. This had been distilled long before current owners Ian Macleod distillers took ownership of the distillery but they have obviously nurtured and lovingly tended it in its sherry butt to produce this fine example which will only enhance Glengoyne’s growing status as a single malt.

    
    

    
    

     

    Sadly, I was not able to attend but they took the chance, on the day, to look at whisky with food (one of may favourite topics) and the rest of the Glengoyne range. Chef Proprietor Tom Lewis from the award-winning Monachyle Mhor restaurant/boutique hotel has created recipe cards using Glengoyne expressions in various dishes. I intend to try them soon with the bottles I have in my own cupboard.  One of them is Black Bun, a traditional Scottish cake eaten at New Year and every bit as large a task as making your own Christmas cake, which I enjoy doing.

     

    The Glengoyne 40 Years Old presentation is simply gorgeous and oozes luxury with a cream leather-lined, solid oak gift box also containing a leather bound book, signed by the distillery manager and containing tasting notes and distillery information. This presentation, in turn, is slotted inside a stylish dark leather carry case. The decanter itself was produced by Scottish family-owned company Glencairn Crystal who recently supplied decanters for a special whisky I was bottling for a drinks trade organisation here in Scotland. The people there go the extra mile to give good service and quality and also produce the Glencairn whisky glass which many of you will own or at least have seen.

     

    Each decanter is individually numbered on the base, features gilded engraving and is accompanied by an etching of the distillery. This has to be one of the most opulent pieces of packaging I have seen in years and reflects the high status – and price – of the bottling. Only 250 of these decanters are available worldwide and at the moment it is not possible to say how many will come to the US and Canada or to which outlets. I can take a guess at a few places but the company is still taking orders. In US terms it is priced at $5,730. Distilled in November 1968, it comes at a strength of 45.9% vol. You wouldn’t miss it in-store as diamond shaped display plinths will be used to ensure maximum visibility in “opinion-leading international luxury outlets.” It is also available from the distillery online shop with orders to be sent out from December, but that may not be practical for North American customers (those customs rules again) and anyway, who would want to entrust something like this to post or courier? I would encourage you to visit this excellent little distillery with its fine range of tours and tastings so you could buy one there but you can’t even cuddle it on the plane home any more. You should still visit the distillery though and buy some in your home market. Put your name down on a waiting list, sell your first born, whatever it takes. 
    

     

     

    As this is something so rare and precious, no tasting samples were sent out. The company’s own tasting notes are:

     

    Appearance: Dark, old copper

     

    Nose:    Oily, red apples, crème brûlée, ripe strawberries & cream.  World class!

     

    Palate:    Layers of ripe bananas, spiced plums, honey and cereal, dries into grapefruit, then soft oak. Complex. Oily mouth feel. It's a joy to open casks after four decades and find such great balance between Cask and Still.  

     

    Finish:    Long, dry and lingering.

     

    Marketing Director Iain Weir commented, “This is a world class, once in a lifetime bottling. It was essential that the design and presentation of the Glengoyne 40 Years Old Highland Single Malt be a true reflection of its outstanding quality and reinforce its position as one of the top luxury Limited Edition Single Malts available in the market today.”

    Not many of us round the world will get the chance to taste this so you’re a very lucky creature if you do. Make it a tasting memory to treasure.

     

    © Caroline Dewar 2009

     

     

     

     

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• Glenfarclas Top of The Heap Do Glenfarclas Top of The Heap Down Under

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    13^th October 2009

    
    

    News came in recently of an award for Glenfarclas in Australia – it has been named as “Best Overall Whisky” at the Australian Malt Whisky Awards conducted by the Malt Whisky Society of Australia. Indeed, it is the second time they have won as the prize was awarded to Glenfarclas at the inaugural awards in 2003. This year it also picked up the prestigious Members’ Choice award.

     

    Here is a photo of George Grant (left) of the family which owns the distillery – now the sixth generation of the family to run it – alongside Ian McWilliam, Sales Executive, with the medal and pack. Commenting on the Glenfarclas 30 Years Old, Peter Godden, Chairman of the Judges said, ‘Pure, perfect sherry and malt combine. Clean, precise and rich with a flavour that drives on and on. A complete,perfect sherried style’.

     

    The style of Glenfarclas is very sherried and one which I like, probably due to my early days in the Scotch Whisky industry when my employers owned a distillery which relied on a lot of sherry cask maturation. It is also a fine little distillery which my tour clients enjoyed in the days when I did more of that sort of thing. These days I pick up enquiries for tours only at the top end of the market and for corporate trips and whisky events like tastings or dinners. In fact. I had an Australian client at Glenfarclas in September for their Ambassador Tour and he was well impressed with the quality of information and production and the time taken with him.

     

    An award in Australia may not mean much to US consumers but it does reflect the very high quality of whisky produced at Glenfarclas and they are lovely people. If it is not one you have tried, you should do so and you may find a lifelong friendship developing.

     

    © Caroline Dewar 2009

     

     

     

     

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• Glengoyne 12 Year Old Joins Up Glengoyne 12 Year Old Joins Up

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    12^th October, 2009

     

    As of this month Glengoyne is offering a new 12 year old expression as part of its core range. This one is at standard strength of 43% vol. The previous sample I had of their 12 year old is a special cask strength version launched several years ago – and a damn fine dram it was too.

     

    Glengoyne’s owners – Ian Macleod Distillers - describe this one, like all their offerings from here, as “untainted by harsh peat smoke”. Now, that view depends on whether you like peat smoke and it is making a virtue out of the lack of peating in their barley. In my view some whiskies suit peat in the barley kilning process and some don’t, or perhaps rather less of it than others. This one doesn’t suit it so much and it always tastes good – fresh and clean but always with an interesting array of further aromas and tastes. It is always a very nuanced single malt.

     

    This 12 Year Old will be available in about sixty markets including the USA and priced at about US$ 56. They expect it to become a fairly rapid second best seller behind their standard 10 Year Old and sold only through specialist whisky stores. As you can see from the photograph, packaging design is in keeping with the other core offerings at 10, 17 and 21 so it won’t be hard to spot on shelf.

     

    

    
    

     

    My tasting notes for the cask strength version in 2004 were:

    "Appearance is glowing gold. On the nose we have leather, green malt and a clean, fresh air scent. Some spirit and cereal. Also a touch of those "Fisherman's Friend " throat sweets we get here in the UK! Light sherry and apple notes. With water there is a hint of soft toffee or fudge.

    It has a medium mouthfeel and slightly unctuous - it does coat the mouth a little. On the palate are toffee, dried peel (like that used in rich fruit cakes) honey and pepper - due to the high strength. The finish is warming and fairly long.

    Those notes appeared on the old Distillery Destinations website in November 2004. I don’t have a sample of the new 12 Year Old but compared those above with the company’s own notes for this new version which read:

    “…a natural golden colour, the 12 Years Old has scents of coconut oil, lemon zest, honey and dried malt. With a warming mouth feel, its initial palate is of toffee apples and cinnamon spice, while a touch of water brings out ginger, fresh orange and shortbread. The balanced finish is further mellowed by hints of sherry and soft oak.”

    So our views are not far apart even if the two expressions are slightly different – one at cask strength and one not. We agree on most of the nose and taste parameters but have chosen to describe them differently. As I always say to people in tastings, it’s the nose and flavour references in your own head that matter. People like me and the companies themselves can only give guidelines as to the directions in which you should think.

     

    Final company comment goes to Iain Weir, Marketing Director for the brand who commented, “….It is also in response to international demand, particularly from Western Europe, where our customers are looking for a high quality, intermediate step between the Glengoyne 10 and 17 Year Olds.”

    
    

    For my part, I am sure that North American customers will also find this an interesting step – see how the 10 Year Old develops two years on and then take a little leap up the age and cost ladders to see what happens next at 17 before culminating in the 21 Year Old. On that note I should say there is an even older and limited version just released but more news on that one very soon.  

     

    © Caroline Dewar 2009

     

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• That Midas Touch That Midas Touch

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    8^th October 2009

     

    Not content merely with launching Tempest, Bowmore Distillery brings us its ultimate offering so far – Bowmore Gold. Launched in late September, they dub this one “the most collectable whisky in the world”. We’ve had White and Black so now we have Gold. Or should it have been red to make it another queen?

     

    Musings aside, the whisky is 44 years old at 42.4% vol.  and only 701 bottles are for purchase, hand-numbered and presented in a sumptuous burr elm case. This is the oldest whisky ever released by the distillery. The whisky has been matured in three bourbon casks and one oloroso sherry cask, then married together for a refined and elegant richness.

    
    

     

    For something this precious and expensive, no tasting samples are available to mere plebs but we are told it is:

    
    

    “Rich gold in colour with aromas of passion fruit, papaya and vanilla. An explosion of ripe exotic fruits, creamy vanilla and only a hint of peat smoke on the palate.”

    
    

    Sounds fabulous but unless someone wants to buy me some I am unlikely to find out. I do have a birthday at the end of this month…..

    
    

    Bowmore’s manager, Eddie McAffer comments, “ I am so proud to see this last and very special part of the trilogy released. At Bowmore we put everything we have into every single bottle but this Gold Bowmore is something quite unique, embodying everything that is special about the whisky and from a year when things at the Bowmore distillery really went into a new era.” Eddie is referring to 1964 when this was distilled and when the distillery changed its stills from coal-firing to steam.

    
    

    A set of a previous Black Bowmore trilogy released in the mid 1990’s sold for $18,000 at Christie’s in 2007. But do please bear in mind one of my favourite rants – whisky is for drinking and enjoying, not for investment. This Gold expression will set you back some US$6,250 for a bottle, so not for the financially challenged. I’d love to hear from someone who does buy one to tell me what they think it tastes like – and send a photo into FSL site of you with your bottle of Gold Bowmore.

    
    

    Slainte Mhath! 

     

    © Caroline Dewar 2009

     

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• Bowmore Goes Shakespearean Bowmore Goes Shakespearean

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    8^th October 2009

     

    Morrison Bowmore has launched a new limited edition called Tempest. Thought I'd go for the literary headline this time. Only 2000 cases are available and it was unveiled mid-September. My piece on this for you has been delayed as my sample to write my own tasting notes was nothing but pulp when the first one arrived so I have been awaiting another bottle. The postal strikes over here are not helping matters.

     

    This is at 10 years old with a strength of 55.3%. Definitely one to sip with water. My old brain tells me we have seen 10 year olds from here before but this one is at cask strength, not chill-filtered and comes from first fill bourbon casks. Bowmore does use bourbon wood but not always first fill except for special editions like this.

    
    

     

    In keeping with the Tempest theme, they have created their own Beaufort Scale, normally used to measure wind effects on seagoing vessels, to chart on a graph the smokiness and complexity of this fine little dram. As you might expect, it comes almost up to half way on the smokiness scale and half way along the complexity scale.

    I do have an image of that to show you – but even better to buy a bottle and look at it for yourself. This may provoke comments that the whisky is middle of the road. That would be tosh from the uninformed and those who prefer drinking moonshine.

    
    

     

    The notes are:

    Appearance: Medium gold with amber and copper highlights. Legs are very slow to form and quite densely packed at first.

    Nose: Delightfully smoky (not overpowering) and sea air but with enticing front notes of chocolate orange and marzipan. Quite mouth watering. Some fragrant herbs also.

    Adding water brings out the smoke and chocolate orange with hints of warm cream (not quite cream cheese) and a light toastiness.

    Palate: oily and mouth coating but not too heavy; creamy and unctuous. There is a touch of sea salt and herb but an underlying oak sweetness too with a waft of fresh Clementine peel – it isn’t strong enough to be orange, it’s more delicate than that.

    Finish: Long, pleasantly smoky and dry with creamy tones.

     

    The UK price is almost £40 per bottle and key markets for this are UK, Europe and Asia so you’ll need to travel a bit to get some. Next time you get to sit at your window watching a storm have a glass of this to hand or, better still, when you are on the viewing balcony at Bowmore Distillery on Islay on a wet and windy day, have one there – if they have any left.

     

    © Caroline Dewar 2009

     

     

     

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• Ardbeg Corryvreckan - Reprise Ardbeg Corryvreckan - Reprise

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
  • Description:

     

    5 September 2009

     

    On 1^st September Ardbeg announced the launch of a new expression, Corryvreckan. It will be available in the US from late September. It was previewed in 2008 when 5,000 bottles were made available to members of The Ardbeg Committee (I bought one and still haven't opened it -something to look forward to). Such was its reception that the company decided to add it as a regular part of the range. US pricing will be about $85 per bottle and it will be available from selected spirit specialist stores. In other countries it will also be available online from the Ardbeg website shop.

     

    This is another high strength offering at 57.1% vol. and not chill-filtered. As usual, I requested a sample to write my own notes rather than use the company’s own (excellent though they usually are, I like to form my own view before reading “official” tasting notes). So my version is:

     

    Appearance – Rich gold. Slow running and fairly widely spaced “windows” .

    Nose – Smoke, smoke and smoke! Tar and iodine with a slight antiseptic note. With

    water the smoke is softened and the nose becomes more aromatic and toasty.

    A touch of sweet grass. 

    Palate – Unctuous, pepper and tar, medicinal/antiseptic with plenty of smoke and a

    hint of sweeteness.

    Finish -  Long, smoky and dry. A stomach warmer!

     

    This expression was inspired by the infamous Corryvreckan whirlpool off the north end of Jura, Islay’s near neighbour. Some think of this as one of the most dangerous stretches of water in the UK and its sound can be heard for miles. Dr. Bill Lumsden, the wizard behind whisky creation for Ardbeg’s owners commented, “Like the whirlpool, Ardbeg Corryvreckan is heady, intense and powerful. Its “finish” is long and deep, leaving the connoisseur with a lingering thought of a mysterious and daring journey.” He goes onto explain that experimentation began in 1999 for small parcels of Ardbeg stock maturing in French oak casks on Islay. These form the heart of Corryvreckan. If you like your malts powerful and smoky this is a must try.

     

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• Highland Park Looks North Highland Park Looks North

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
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    4 September 2009

    In August I received news of Highland Park’s latest expression, followed some days later by a tasting sample. It’s a tough job but someone has to do it.

     

    This new offering is called Hjarta at 58.1% vol and 12 years old, available only at the distillery, via the on-line shop or in Scandinavia. Therefore you may have to travel quite a distance to get some. UK price is £65 per bottle. Hjarta is the ancient Norse word for heart and Orkney had a long Scandinavian heritage before it ever became part of Scotland. The Orkneys were under Nordic rule until 1468 when a marriage was announced between James III of Scotland and Margaret, daughter of King Christian I of Denmark and Norway. The islands were part of the new queen’s dowry. 

     

    Its launch is to coincide with the refurbishment of the visitor centre at the distillery where natural Orcadian materials have been used throughout the premises. Neolithic and Pictish designs decorate the walls and Caithness stone flagstones cover the floor.

    The new tasting bar features Orkney dry-stone walling and wood from an old washback which had seen 37 years of service at the distillery. A new cask education area highlights the importance of top quality sherry casks to the richness and complexity of Highland Park in all its forms.

     

    The icon on the bottle was designed by Andy Bowman, a designer who is also a keen explorer and Orkney expert. He took his inspiration from Viking carvings found on the islands.

     

    Only 3924 bottles of this fine whisky have been produced so it will be a rarity but it should be treasured for drinking and not for investment. 

    My notes went as follows:

     

    Appearance – Rich amber gold. Legs slow to develop and not too close. Indication of

    strength in this instance.

    Nose –  Orange oil with toffee or caramel – and slightly minty. Hints of vanilla and

    touch of smoke with a sweet spiciness. Addition of water brings out the

    caramel and allows more herb and the characteristic Highland Park heather to

    come through.

    Palate – Smokier than it is on the nose. Medium mouth feel and heathery with residual honey sweetness.

    Finish – Long and quite smoky. Very satisfying.

     

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• And We're Back ! And We're Back !

  • From: WhiskyCorrespondent
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    Hello all FSL readers. Summer was very quiet for news and I was away on three short trips to Europe. Keeping the holidays short and inexpensive this year in the current financial climate.

    Now that we are nearing the end of August, bits of Scotch Whisky world news are starting to trickle back in so I will be writing some pieces over the next few days and on into next week. It's a busy time for me in other ways as I have been involved in organising three major events over here in the business and drinks trade worlds - all of which happen over the next month -  as well as creating a few client trips and dealing with a domestic renovations list as long as a yard of ale. Haven't had much time to be idle.

    One or two of the articles will be on new brand expressions. One is already with me and has been sampled for my article. The other one is awaited.

    Hope you all had a good summer. Here in Scotland it is beginning to look like autumn, a bit too early.  I need at least another week of consistent sun for the tomatoes in my greenhouse. 

    Looking forward to getting new pieces posted for you soon.

     

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