6 November 2008

I couldn't think of a headline for this article any better than that of the book from Richard Paterson, Master Blender of Whyte & Mackay. Several years in the preparation, "Goodness Nose – The Passionate Revelations of A Scotch Whisky Master Blender" was launched in Glasgow- on the River Clyde – on 30^th October. All the great and the good and relative newcomers connected with the Scotch Whisky industry were there, with a few exceptions whose work commitments simply did not allow it. Such is the high regard in which the industry holds Richard Paterson. I was fortunate in being able to follow that on another day, with an interview with Richard exclusive for www.forscotchlovers.com .

Why has the book taken so long? Well, the man is a perfectionist, not to mention he seems to spend half his life these days travelling the world to promote Whyte & Mackay blends and their single malts, The Dalmore, Isle of Jura and more. Richard does say he found all the time he spends on planes useful for working on the text. Co-writer (emphatically not ghost writer), Gavin D. Smith, found it a bit frustrating at times but they got there in the end. So here we are just in time for the US holiday and European Christmas season with a terrific gift idea for lovers of Scotch Whisky.

What is different about this book? Well, not only is it the story of one notable man's life in the Scotch Whisky industry and delightful anecdotes of others he has met on the way but it also includes a chapter about blending and how Richard approaches it. Some people, removed from the blending side, can work in the whisky industry for a long time and not know this stuff so it's a valuable and fascinating chapter. I found the whole book a great read.

If you have been fortunate enough to attend one of Richard's masterclasses at a whisky show near you then you will know the man is a poet when it comes to Scotch Whisky. An ambassador par excellence. There are very few left who can talk so eloquently, amusingly and passionately about Scotch, combined with a vast raft of experience to back it up. That shines through here. You might also know about Richard's passion for dates and history. You'll find plenty of those in the book too. The delay has also allowed him and Gavin to update it since the purchase of Whyte & Mackay by Indian business magnate (beer to airlines) Vijay Mallya last year and to comment on where the industry is now headed.

As you might expect, "Goodness Nose" lauds malt whiskies but, most importantly, celebrates blends. In my view, people who look down on blends as a poor relation to single malts suffer from malt snobbery, ill-informed arrogance and a lack of good whisky knowledge. Don't worry; I will say what I mean here! It is an art and a skill and blended whisky is what earns the industry its living. Around 90% of Scotch Whisky sold round the world is still blend despite the chatter round malts which does generate a lot of interest and brings people into Scotch if they haven’t already found their way in via blends. It is the pleasure, not work, of a lifetime to taste them. For anyone who doesn't already know the development of blended whisky you will find it in these pages too.

One interesting point made in Richard's own launch speech and in the book is that he was given his first taste of Scotch by his father, a whisky broker and blender, at the age of eight. As he says, it hasn't done him any harm. The point was to educate the boy about the family business and to understand Scotch Whisky – or alcohol and its capabilities in general, not to put him on the path to excessive drinking. He didn't touch it again for some years, it seems. It was his father's careful education which has formed a healthy respect for Scotch Whisky and alcoholic drinks, that we often seem to lack today. Only through education will people understand what these products do but also how wonderful they can be. A number of our European cousins who produce wines seem to have it right. Indeed, some of Scotland's major newspapers reported the book launch next day and applauded Richard's stance on teaching children about alcohol in a sensitive and informative way.  

This is an excellent buy for the whisky lover and one you will find yourself returning to for information. It is published by Neil Wilson under his Angels' Share imprints here in Glasgow, Scotland and can be purchased from the website at www.nwp.co.uk . Neil tells me it is distributed in the USA by Interlink Books and their website is www.interlinkbooks.com . Alternatively it can also be bought via the excellent Malt Advocate magazine so contact them on www.maltadvocate.com . They also have copies for WhiskyFest New York on 11 November which would be a great opportunity to buy one – or more. UK price is £19.99 plus post and packing if ordered online or $29.99 plus post and packing in the USA.

So we had the launch event and a jolly time where I was able to catch up with friends and acquaintances old and new in the industry. But what did Richard have to say when I caught up with him the next day?

Why write the book now? Is it a milestone for your 40 years in the industry?

It reflects and looks back. You want to have left something behind if you go suddenly! It's important to me in that it expresses passion and looks at the industry in a different light.

What are your major issues for the industry right now?

Alcohol abuse. I'd like to go to schools and talk to children – with the consent of their parents.

What products are you most proud of?

For several reasons, the one which won the Spirit of Scotland trophy in 1994. [Read about it in the book.] Also, The Dalmore 62 Year Old. It took fifteen years to create and the older a whisky is you must allow it at least 12 - 18 months to marry.

You first tasted whisky at eight years old. Did you like it then and if not, when did you start?

No – I didn't like it then. It was years later, quite slowly and not overnight. It took quite a while. I had to try whiskies and find those that suited my palate; the styles I liked. You need to start at the Lowlands and go from there.

Looking at another comment in your book it seems that port and other wine casks, apart from sherry, are not a new idea then? I encountered port casks on joining Teacher's in the early 80's but it didn't do much for the single malt they were trying it on.

No they're not a new thing. Sherry influence can make great whisky but it mustn't overpower. There are also many types of sherry including ordinary old brown and different types suit different spirits.

You started in the industry in 1966 aged just seventeen. Did you have any notion then of career development or the international opportunities you have now?

When I started I got a fright as there was so much to do.  I wanted to achieve recognition but knew it would take years. This book is asserting authority of blends and recognising their contribution to the industry.

You mentioned your brother in your speech. He was sent to a different school from you – a Naval School. So why no whisky world for him?

He went into the Navy and from meeting people there he found that social work appealed. It suited his character better.

On page 28, I think, you say your company at that time just put together what whiskies it had for a blend. Was that only the small companies like that one? And are blends today better or more consistent given there are fewer players?

Yes it was the smaller ones. The bigger places would have a more formal process of stocks laid down. I would say for the last ten years or so blends and malts have been more consistent due to availability and trade arrangements but also due to consumer demand. Blenders should have stocks to go forward for three or four years to make up any possible differences if a distillery closes or a certain whisky becomes otherwise unavailable.

There are a few mentions of accountants in the book. Do you approve of or have much regard for them?

Some decisions are taken for the short term and are not good ones if they work on their own. They need to be in harmony with other departments.

Are there any old industry practices you'd like to see revived?

Marrying of whiskies and doing so with good casks. One good thing from the other side is that there is now better communication. Blenders from different companies do talk to one another which didn't really happen years ago.

People or computers in distilleries?

Oh God, it has to be people. 

On another page you say the Scotch Whisky industry realised in the 1970's the vast potential of female drinkers. I disagree. I think it's taken a lot longer and that whisky as a "male" drink persisted for some time. Were Whyte & Mackay ahead of their time?

Well one of our ads from the time recognised women drinkers. I see a lot of female consumers of malts too, especially at whisky festivals. I think it's great when you meet couples where both love Scotch Whisky.

Chill filtration- yes or no?

I'm an advocate of it. If a consumer sees clouds or sediment it's not acceptable. It's an education thing. It does not make a change to the actual spirit – that's been proved recently.  It's a kind of cleansing and gives stability on the palate, some polish. It enhances the silky, sensual tones which emerge in whiskies at certain ages.

Any dislikes about current whisky practices? Any industry or usage culture which irritates you?

Christmas discounting. It's a devaluation of Scotch Whisky. It should never happen. Given the effort which goes into my blends we're not always allowed to price it at the level it should be. Reason for the discounts is in order to keep or gain share.

We used to be hung up on age and shouldn't be. In a malt, if there is no age statement, the blender always has older malt in it. The consumer should be aware of not getting a raw deal and know to trust the blender.

Do you think most people really take the time to savour their whisky or get to know it on its own before playing with it?

No. A connoisseur may, but generally things should be more in-depth to get the character, the style and the story from the palate. Only on the second taste is the palate getting it right.

Is there such a thing as a bad blend from Scotland?

No, definitely not. Some are better than others. With today's technology and quality control that should not happen. Even at the lowest price levels one may not like the qualities personally but there is nothing bad.

Blending - whiskies are like people or personalities to you it seems and should be handled accordingly?

Absolutely, one hundred per cent. I have to categorise them in that way.

Your descriptions in the blending chapter are very sensual. Do you get that frisson with each sample you nose?

Oh yes. You think she's beautiful; she's elegant; she's fine. The descriptions are masculine for some whiskies, feminine for others. It's a partnership. The more communication with someone, the more you fall in love but you also compromise and sort out your differences. It's a constant communication between the components of a blend.

There is seemingly so much preoccupation with single malts despite their share. Does that bother you and how do you get round malt diehards to get over your blended message?

Campbell Evans [Scotch Whisky Association] hit on it yesterday. Blends are being revived. Blends are still king. We must never lose sight of blends and blended malts. Our Whyte & Mackay 40 Year Old is 70 per cent malt. All the nuances and flavours of each malt are there in blended whiskies. Those trying malts in tastings and then going back to aged blends especially, can see my point here, particularly with blends in the 15 – 22 year age range.  

Richard is currently looking at some older Dalmores and Juras so treats to look out for in future. Lang may his lum reek as we say over here. Roughly translated that means we hope he's around for along time yet.

© Caroline Dewar 2008